Fry feeding guide

Best live food for killifish fry

Killifish fry are born further along than most — many hatch able to take microworms within hours — but they grow at wildly uneven rates, and the fry tank’s real management problem is that last week’s fry eats this week’s. Live food in constant supply is both the growth engine and the peace treaty.

A killifish snapping at live food at the surface

Photo: Andrew Bogott, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

The feeding plan

StageFeed thisWhy it works
Hatch dayMicroworms (vinegar eels for the smallest species)Most killifish fry (Nothobranchius especially) hatch hunting; tiny Aphyosemion and lamp-eye fry start safer on eels
Weeks 1–3Microworms + newborn daphnia / moinaIntroduce baby moina early — the fry that graduate first grow explosively, which is your cue to grade
Weeks 3–6Adult moina + young grindal wormsMeaty growth food as juveniles sex out; keep daphnia running constantly so smaller siblings always find a size that fits
Young adultsJoin the adult killifish planDaphnia and grindal in rotation conditions the next generation of spawners

Practical tips

  • Grade by size weekly. One grading session saves more fry than any food upgrade — big fry are the main predator in the tank.
  • Keep food present, not scheduled: a fry tank with moina always swimming grows even batches and cuts hunting of siblings.
  • Hatch over a shallow tray and move fry to deeper water gradually; killifish fry are surface-oriented at first.
Watch out: Velvet and water quality, not food, are the usual killifish fry killers after week two — live food tempts overfeeding, so siphon the floor daily and change water little and often.

Common questions

What do killifish fry eat?

Microworms from hatch for most species (vinegar eels first for the tiniest), newborn daphnia (moina) from week 1–2, then adult moina and young grindal worms. Keep a size of food available for every size of fry.

Why are my killifish fry disappearing?

Usually their siblings. Killifish grow at very uneven rates and big fry eat small fry. Grade by size weekly and keep live daphnia in the tank constantly so hunting is aimed at food, not brothers.

Start these cultures

In stock in the Western Cape, dispatched Monday to Wednesday, door-to-door across South Africa.

Microworms climbing the wall of a culture tub, harvested with a fingertip

Microworms

In stock

Panagrellus redivivus

The go-to first food for betta, gourami, tetra and cory fry

Size±1–3 mm
Culture mediumOats / instant porridge paste
Temperature18–27 °C (room temperature)
DifficultyVery easy

R50 · 15 ml starter culture

Vinegar eel starter culture tub

Vinegar Eels

In stock

Turbatrix aceti

The tiniest first food — cultured on oats, despite the name

Size±0.3–2 mm
Culture mediumOats / instant porridge paste (like microworms)
Temperature18–27 °C (room temperature)
DifficultyVery easy

R50 · 15 ml starter culture

Live daphnia (moina) being harvested with a fine net from a green culture tub

Daphnia (Moina)

In stock

Moina sp.

The small “daphnia” that suits fry and small fish — and breeds fast in warm water

Size±0.4–1.5 mm (adults ±1–1.5 mm)
Temperature20–30 °C (fastest at 24–28 °C)
FoodGreen water, yeast, spirulina
DifficultyModerate — keep a backup culture

R50 · starter culture

Fry starter kit with culture tubs, a daphnia (moina) jar and pipette beside a fry tank

Fry Starter Kit

In stock

All four fry cultures in one parcel

Every fry size covered, from first bite to grow-out, in one courier parcel

IncludesDaphnia (moina), microworms, banana worms, vinegar eels
Culture mediaWater tub (moina) + oats paste (worms & eels)
TemperatureRoom temperature (moina warmest, 20–30 °C)
DifficultyVery easy

R200 · 4-culture bundle

Feeding killifish fry? Get the culture right first time.

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More species guides

Live food for bettas · Food for betta fry · Food for guppy fry · Live food for guppies · All species →

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